Time to get back out into the mountains!
Last monday I picked my friend Laurayne up from Queenstown airport and we headed off to the start of our adventure - Wanaka. After leaving our intentions with DoC and hiring a locator beacon, we drove down the Aspiring road and along a long gravel track to Raspberry Flat. Leaving Freddie in the carpark, we heaved our 20KG packs onto our backs, and set off. We were carrying all our food and gear for 7 days of climbing in the high alpine peaks of the area. we walked as far as Apiring Hut, and set up our tent there. We practiced a bit of rope work and crevasse rescue, just in case!
Next morning we were up early and left some of our food at the hut, to save weight. We climbed over 1000m to Cascade Saddle, with early cloud clearing, giving us fantastic views of the surrounding mountains. We camped at cascade saddle, by a beautiful clear snow-melt river. The next morning (at 4.45am!!) we stuck our heads oout of the tent and were disappointed to find heavy cloud and poor visibility. We went back to sleep for an hour or so, then got up and decided to head up onto a ridge and navigate our way to the Isobel Glacier, in the hope that it would clear later and we could make a summit attempt at Mt Anstead (2388m). We used bearings to find our way, but approached the glacier in much improving visibility and blue skies. Anstead is a long day, and we thought it best not to be getting back off the Glacier too late (the sun makes the snow bridges over the crevasses weak, and there is more chance of falling through). So we headed for Mt Tyndall, a higher peak at 2496m, but closer. We dumped our packs at the head of the glacier and made our way up patches of loose rock and steep snow. We had a few false starts, finding ways to be impassable and unsafe, before finding a route of snow, and a final rock scramble to the summit. We were rewarded with astounding views of the Matukituki Valley and surrounding mountains.
Very happily, we plodded back to camp accross the glacier.
We had planned to climb Plunkett Dome, but its approach was steep and heaily crevassed, with many of the crevasses opening up due to a very warm November! So we made the slightly crazy choice to descend the 1000m to the valley floor, walk a few kms along the valley, and climb another 1000m up French Ridge! It was a long day, the temperature was approaching 30 degrees and we had very heavy packs again, although we each only took one ice-axe up here to save weight, and left a few bits of gear behind. It was a ten hour day, involving a river crossing and wet feet! French ridge is steep, which is hard with big packs, but at least you gain height quickly! We camped outside French Ridge Hut, and met the friendly warden there. It was stunning, well up out of the bushline with stunning mountains all around, and a view back up the valley to where we had walked from that morning!!
The next morning we were up at five to attempt the Quarter deck(2305m) and Mt French. The quarterdeck is a snow slope, leading up to the Bonar Glacier, over which Mt Aspiring presides. It is steep in places and quite heavily crevassed, but the snow was good and firm (thanks to our early morning start). We roped up for safety and had a good steady plod to the top. The view at the top was breathtaking. The Bonar Glacier was a vast, smooth carpet of snow, with Mt Aspiring rising graciously from it. There were snow capped mountains as far as the eye could see, the sun was bright and the sky was blue. Mt French had a big schrund cutting through our route, and was heavily corniced at the top, so we decided not to risk it. We negotiated our way back down the Quarterdeck and stopped for refreshment once we were safely back on rock. I then put on my waterproof trousers and slid down the snow on my bum back to camp - great fun! (and a legitimate mountaineering technique!!).
So being back down for lunchtime, we did what any self respecting mountaineer would do - we sat in the sun and ate all afternoon! We did so well at this, that our packs were much lighter for the descent, and we had no excess food to carry ;-)
The next day we packed up camp and headed down to the valley again. We enjoyed the walk out, down the lush and green Matukituki Valley. We rested a while at aspiring hut, before the last two hour slog. back at the car (again, 30 degree heat!) we were soooo glad to take off our boots, which were the only thing we had worn on our feet for the last week, and put on our flip-flops. We drove into wanaka, handed in our return slip, then sat in a cafe and ordered massive bowls of good, sweet coffee, and stuffed our faces with mozarella garlic bread and cheese muffins! Having not had a shower in a week, we cleared the cafe out pretty quick......
We then found a campsite (with showers) and got clean! When I say clean, we had no shower gel, so used leaves of travel soap, we had nothing to wash our hair with an no hairbrush, so we still looked pretty awful! But I had that post-hills alpine glow that no make up could ever replicate, and I was so happy and content. We wandered to the pub, in tracksuit bottoms and the cleanest thermal I could find. We drank beer, had fish and chips, then returned to the pub for more wine.... absolute bliss! We could stop talking about this trip, planning our next trip, and congratulaing each other on a successful week!
The next day the weather closed in, but we didn't care. I dropped Laurayne off for her return flight to Christchurch, both so happy, in a way that is only achieved from week of hard physical activity, in one of the most beautiful settings in the world......
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